Didn’t he just buy a boat that was watered only a few months ago? Didn’t he say it was brand new? Refit?!?
Just after one season, the tiller and the handle of the companionway hatch already looked pretty shitty. I’m a visual guy. The looks needed to be fixed. ASAP!
Both parts only treated with teak oil to conserve it build a greyisch, greenisch, brownisch rotten looking patina. Water and UV-rays did their job over the season.
Seascape recommended to sand-paper it and treat it with oil again. This will do the trick … for another few month and then back to start … no thank you!
With wood, there are mainly two approaches to conserve it open-pored and closed-pored.
Open-pored means the wood can “breathe” and regulate its moisture levels according to the environment. As so, it will follow its natural decomposition. Some protective film – like teak oil – will slow down the process and fight back against sun and water but does not seal off the material. It’s a rather conservative, easy an cheap method. The price to pay is bad looks or lots of sanding and oiling over and over again.
Closed-pored means the wood is completely sealed of from its environment. “Plastic”-wrapped you could say. No air or moisture from the outside is getting in contact with the wood. It’s the method for keeps. Wooden hulls are usually treated like that nowadays. There is one major risk though – Wood fungus will start its rotting activities already at a threshold of 18 – 20% of moisture. An unstoppable process. The wood needs to be dried down to 15%, ideally 7 – 12% before the treatment and it needs to stay that way. A hole in the protective film will cause the moisture level to rise again; giving room to our fungus friends and the wood as nutrition along with it.
The website of CTM GmbH – unfortunately in German only – provides experts tips and instructions how to create the perfect closed-pored protective film. Epoxy and some UV protective seal are involved. Done once, it should last for years looking awesome. Only sunscreen – the UV protection – needs to be applied every other year! Way to go!
But today was all about sanding the parts. A step required for both approaches. Fortunately, the bad looking patina was only superficial. The naturally beautiful look of the teak returned just after a few millimeters. Time for drying, 4 – 6 weeks!